By Todd Gustafson

We were on the Crater floor before sunrise searching for lions. On the first pass, we struck out and settled for buffalo, elephants, zebras fighting, and a pair of Crowned Cranes doing an intricate courtship dance. We backtracked as soon as we heard the two black-maned lions from the Mungi River Pride were out for portraits in the golden morning light.

Some people found Kori Bustards displaying for a mate, others watched two black rhino amble across a meadow to the road, while our group watched as a zebra mare gave birth to a foal. Just at delivery time, a huge hyena came in and tried to grab the newborn only to be chased away by the protective stallion. We left when more hyenas came near, not wanting to see the sad ending to the story. 

Just before breakfast, we watched as a lioness crept in close to a herd of buffalo to steal a calf. The largest female buffalo turned and went after the lioness like a freight train. The wide-eyed look of terror on her face as she ran toward us was priceless. It’s the Crater! 

The lions were out in the meadow, but the real story was the big tusked elephant in the hippo pool. When we got in position and started shooting, three more big bulls moved in from the plane. The four bulls moved out of the hippo pool and did some trunk twisting and tusk jousting. Our last stop was on the second curve of the Mungi River. It was Crowned Crane heaven with 300 spectacular birds dancing, flying, and courting.

Tonight was our goodbye party with our guides, which included a slideshow to show them what we were able to do thanks to their efforts. Everyone’s photos were GREAT!

On our last day in Tanzania, we packed the luggage early and hit the Crater floor at 6:30 a.m. Lake Magadi was bigger due to a local rain storm last night, so the flamingos were much closer to the road. Jackals were hunting and the zebras were drinking, but the best part was a male Kori Bustard showing himself off on a hill in perfect light. As he patrolled back and forth making his thrumming, low frequency call, his white neck feathers puffed out like a giant powder puff. It was the best Kori Bustard sighting ever.

After all the excitement, it was time to wind the safari down, have lunch at Gibbs Farm, shop at the Cultural Heritage Center, and say goodbye to those who were returning home after a memorable Tanzania Gustafson Photo Safari. Next stop, Rwanda!

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