Photo courtesy of Debbie Jordan

Back From The Field: Discovering And Rediscovering The Magic Of Ecuador

Back From The Field: Discovering And Rediscovering The Magic Of Ecuador

Apr 18, 2023|Holbrook in the FieldWhere we travel| by Maria Ramirez

In early 2023, two seasoned members of our staff traveled to Ecuador as part of an exciting familiarization (“FAM”) trip organized and hosted by Holbrook for selected trip leaders to get acquainted with the destination. They have both visited countless destinations during their tenure, but Ecuador and its Galápagos Islands is one they both agree is extra special.

Nicole Sullivan accomplished her life-long dream of visiting this megadiverse country, and she did it alongside Debbie Jordan, who has accomplished this same dream five times. “This is my fifth time to the Galápagos, and for me, it was really pretty cool, because we got to go to some of the places that I went on my very first trip when I was a teenager,” she said. “Of all the places I've been — 40 countries now, even Antarctica — Galápagos is still my very most favorite. It's like nowhere else on this planet.”

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Across a thrilling and enriching 10-day adventure, Debbie, Nicole, and a group of travelers explored some of the most special spots in Ecuador. Their journey started in the capital city of Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for having the best preserved historic center in Latin America; they then continued to the Galápagos Islands, a likewise recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site, before a return to the mainland for some high-altitude trekking in the cloud forests of Mindo.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Not only is Holbrook’s history and inception inextricably woven to this unique destination, but everyone who visits also seems to think it holds a certain magic. Nicole said the Galápagos are “a place where everyone can have something. There's a lot of geology. There are birds that you won't see anywhere else. There's the marine wildlife. It's something where anyone can find an interest.” Debbie reminisced about what she nicknamed “Holbrook’s first FAM trip,” company founder Giovanna Holbrook’s first expedition leading a group of professors and naturalists to the Galápagos Islands in 1971. “I think because of its educational nature is probably why she fell in love with the Galápagos. Probably for the same reasons that I love it; it's so unique,” she said.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Perhaps this magic is in its diverse ecosystems and the wildlife inhabiting them, or in its warm and welcoming people, or in the cuisine that blends all of these elements into a tangible byproduct of its circumstances. Nicole and Debbie animatedly described every meal they shared in Ecuador as “out of this world.” They attributed this to the relationships Holbrook has built and nurtured with local in-country providers who organize experiences where travelers can have genuine and meaningful interactions with their surroundings and be “treated like royalty.” They recounted having several memorable meals in Quito, like a 7-course, Ecuadorian-fusion dinner, a ceviche-making class, and a lunch featuring a special dessert served in dry ice and delivered by a “cucurucho,” a religious figure that dates back to colonial times and is now typical of Holy Week processions in downtown Quito. Cucuruchos are fully covered in purple garments that represent penitence during the 40 days of Lent in the Catholic faith.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

There is also no shortage of bewitching wildlife across mainland and insular Ecuador. Ideal factors have collided to give way to such a diverse roster of flora and fauna, including several hundred endemic animals and several thousand endemic plants. Debbie and Nicole gushed about the many highlights they had involving local wildlife, including an unforgettable encounter with dolphins in the Galápagos. Debbie described the serendipitous moment in which their guide quickly told her and another traveler who was nearby to jump in the boat with him to witness something majestic. “There was like 500 dolphins all over the place. I probably saw at least six or seven mothers with babies swimming along beside the boat. One of them jumped out of the water 15 feet in the air,” she said. Nicole caught onto what was happening and, along with the rest of the travelers, jumped into the water after the guide to swim near the dolphins. It was such an unpredictable instance, that everyone forgot their cameras on the shore.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Not being able to capture this moment on camera did not deter them. Debbie and Nicole took hundreds of photographs of many other species, like giant tortoises, sea lions, sea turtles, sharks, iguanas, and countless birds. Nicole also underlined many of the snorkeling experiences they had, including filming a video where one of the photographers participating on the trip was underwater when a huge school of fish decided to swim around him. “I got to see swimming iguanas and sharks. This was like a bucket list trip for things that I've wanted to do my whole life, and it was amazing,” she said.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Despite the growth and changes the islands have been through in the last few decades since Debbie first visited, the wildlife seems to remain unaffected. Debbie recalled she didn’t notice a change in the way the animals behave. Meanwhile, Nicole was impressed by how well all these species cohabitate with the humans visiting the archipelago. She said she couldn’t believe “just how comfortable these animals are around you. There are quite a few people that travel to the Galápagos, and they're still just kind of oblivious to you being around.” Nicole playfully recounted guides warning the group about birds stealing their water, but these are the kinds of anecdotes that visitors hope to take home with them. “There are people trying to take these amazing photos of birds up in a tree, but then there's just one walking right by your feet. It’s crazy how unaffected they are by the tourists that come there now,” she said.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

The legion of memorable experiences in the Galápagos and back in the mainland encapsulate how diverse Ecuador’s treasures and offerings are. As Nicole wisely put it, there is something for everyone there. Because of the nature of a FAM trip, this group of participants had even more varied interests than a traditional program. Between photographers, educators, and geology, birding and wildlife enthusiasts, the mixed bag of travelers brought something unique to this adventure. Nicole recalled how quickly the group bonded over assisting each other in their individual specialties. “They were helping each other identify birds. They were sharing photos and tips. They were very willing to share their knowledge,” she said. “There was one person who was really into geology, so we would stop and ask her about certain things when we were up in the mountains about the volcanoes, and I thought it was pretty cool.”

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Whether it’s someone’s first or fifth time visiting Ecuador, this nation full of natural and cultural riches doesn’t seem to stop surprising and marveling visitors. Nicole and Debbie have contrasting histories with the country, but they both agree on how much it exceeded their expectations. Debbie was not only amazed by the stunning landscapes and wildlife, but she also found great satisfaction in seeing all the other travelers experience what she is so familiar with for the very first time. Nicole mused about how her first visit was above and beyond her imagination. “I haven't really visited historical cities like Quito, so seeing those elaborate churches and how intricate they are, it's surreal how much work went into them,” she said. “I also really enjoyed driving through the mountains. We took a long route, but it was just full of amazing views that I've never seen before. It was absolutely gorgeous. And then the Galápagos was beyond my wildest dreams. Swimming with wild dolphins has been a lifelong dream of mine. I've said this multiple times, I was almost crying while I was snorkeling underwater.”

Photos courtesy of Debbie Jordan and Nicole Sullivan

Debbie and Nicole reflected on how much Holbrook’s ethos and focus on conservation mirror those of Ecuador, and how connected what we do is to the existence of this land, especially the Galápagos Islands. Debbie showed her pride in “the fact that there's cognizance about our efforts in conservation. And over there, people are doing things to try to make sure that the islands aren't harmed by using their biosafety practices. They're super careful about what you carry out to the islands.” Nicole expressed how much she wishes other places were protected in the same way this one is, but they both coincide on how grateful they are to be able to witness it exist at all.

“It's a treasure. The way the currents come together there, and the way the nutrient-rich waters attract so many animals. It is an ecosystem that isn't just the islands. It's way more than that, and I don't know how to describe it,” Debbie said. “I just feel lucky that I've had a chance to go there five times in my life, and I really want to go back again – tomorrow! It's a really cool spot in the world.”

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