Day 4 - Phuyupatamarca to Machu Picchu
We wake up around 5 a.m., no doubt for the excitement of the day. Lucio reminds us that the sun is about to rise and we scramble up to the lookout, coca tea in hand. Ah, the hot coca tea!!! I’m not going to lie to you; it’s cold up here and in the low 40’s on the high passes. And during our summer months, June, July and August, the temperatures are even colder. There isn’t much in the way of the precipitation and that makes it a popular time to go. Also, school is out and these months sell out way in advance if you decide to do this on your own.
I’ve added a temperature chart below that features the different months and the rainfall, as well. I should also add that the trail is closed in February for the rainy season and for maintenance.
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Av. Max Temp C 68 70 70 72 70 70 70 70 72 72 73 72
Av. Min Temp C 45 45 45 40 36 34 30 34 40 43 43 45
Wet days / month 18 13 11 8 3 2 2 2 7 8 12 16
The day is sunny and warms up quickly as we make our way back down to breakfast. This morning we will dine al fresco for our last breakfast on the trail. In the distance we can see another group of porters coming in to make camp for a meal. Eddie tells us they will make their final camp at Wiñay Wayna and then get up in the middle of the night for their final hike to Machu Picchu for the sunrise. We all agree we much prefer the pace of the 5- day -4 night and camping at this incredible site for our last night on the trail.
After breakfast we have the ceremony to thank the chef and the porters for their services and to give them their tips. From here on out we will only have the chef and 2 porters with us for the hike into Machu Picchu. The rest of the porters will go down an alternate trail to catch the local train back to Ollantaytambo and home. You can hear the excitement in their voices as they are talking and laughing while packing up the site, eager to get home.
We say goodbye, take off and now we descend the more tropical side of the mountain range. We hike down to Phuyupatamarka and it is clouded in but beautiful. This archaeological site also features the sacred cascading baths found at other sites once used long ago by the nobles.
We hike down steep steps that wind down the mountainside and are covered from above with masses of thick growth. The steps can only be taken by walking sideways, they are so steep and it is wet so we've got to take it slowly. Flowers and orchids start appearing in huge numbers and soon we are “the orchid paparazzi” as someone put it, snapping away, picture after picture before Eddie brings it to our attention that we must stay on schedule. But they are just so beautiful, orchids of every shape and size!
We hike for 3.5 hours, through the ever-changing cloud forest breaking for a rest and snack. We reach the second tunnel before coming to the Intipata. It is just as fantastic as the previous tunnel and just as steep! At this point in the forest we are at about 9,300 ft.
One of the most special orchids on the trail, Wakani Orchid, Masdevalia veitchiana, in Quechua means "you will weep," from an ancient Inca story.
And one of my favorites, Wiñay Wayna, "Forever Young," Epidendrum secundum, can be seen at Machu Picchu easily, as well as at Wiñay Wayna archaeological site and along the trail.
We move now from Wiñay Wayna and continue on the trail as we descend more in elevation and hike for approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes. The ancient stairways are hanging off the steep mountainsides and orchids continue to pop up everywhere along the trail. We notice Eddie no longer mentions them as we hike so that we won't stop and we can stay on schedule. I think he's figured us out by now. It is raining a bit and clouds move around us as we hike slowly down to the site.
We finally arrive to the Intipunku and the steps to this sacred and ancient gateway are so steep we laugh as we almost climb on all fours to the top. As we reach the gateway, I get so excited. I know that I am experiencing something that I will never forget! It's breathtaking and we are all smiling at the magnificent site of Machu Picchu!!! We made it, and what a trek it has been!
I am nearly moved to tears and stand off to the side to regroup. There are few places where reality exceeds your expectations and I have to say this is truly one of them....
A couple of group pictures and we are on our way. The park is empty and the only living things we see are the llamas munching away in the rain!
We still have 45 minutes to hike down from the stone threshold of Intipunku, "The Sun Gate," go through the ruins and get to the exit gate. We walk in total silence and reflect the last few days hiking and sites.
As we near the exit I notice everyone looking back, again and again at the site of Machu Picchu devoid of any humans! Then I realize that I may never see this again....
Out of the park we are all smiles as we wait for the last bus to arrive that will take us down to Aguas Calientes and we celebrate with a hug!