Exploring Cuba with Mike Curry

Exploring Cuba with Mike Curry

About this trip

Journey to Havana, Cuba and explore the world of Ernest Hemingway and his life in this amazing island which he called home. Using the lens of Hemingway’s novels To Have and Have Not and The Old Man and the Sea, author and Hemingway scholar Michael Curry will lead our journey through the city's complex past and present. We will explore La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), walking through the amazing architecture of monuments, fortresses, churches, and plazas. We will visit the small fishing village of Cojímar, the setting for Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. We will see the Cuban countryside in picturesque Viñales Valley for a deeper understanding of the region's geology, agriculture, and history. Through our visits to artist studios and community projects together with Michael’s longtime Cuban friends, Osmeivy Ortega and others, we will learn about Cuba today and the remarkable resilience of the Cuban people.
"At a point about halfway across the Gulf Stream, on a passage from Key West to Havana on a clear night with calm waters, you can look back from where you have come and see the glow of the lights from Key West. If you look forward at that moment to where you are headed, you can see the glow of Cuba and know you are on a true course to Havana. The fact these two islands are connected in such an ethereal way symbolizes the spiritual and cultural bond between them. Of course, there is a point where the glow from Key West fades, and the glow from Havana strengthens. Ernest Hemingway lived happily in Key West until he sensed and then saw the glow of Cuba. This is a story of his two island homes and the cultures and people who shaped his life and writing for over 30 years." (Hemingway: Between Key West and Cuba. Directed by C. Michael Curry and Raúl Villarreal, 2021)

Highlights

  • Explore Havana through the lens of Ernest Hemingway, who called this place home from 1940 to 1960.
  • Travel with Michael Curry, Hemingway scholar, author, and Cubaphile, to explore key landmarks and cultural sites. 
  • Experience the intense visual beauty of Havana in all its decadence, beauty and history. Enjoy a walking tour with Jaime Rodríguez, one of the three architects who initiated, in the early 1980s, the project to restore Old Havana.
  • Learn about Afro-Cuban religious culture by experiencing the music and ceremony in a local home of musicians in the community of Regla.
  • Take a day trip to Viñales Valley in the country's rural heartland, home to the remarkable limestone hills known as mogotes, and learn about the importance of tobacco in Cuban culture and history.
  • Experience the contemporary art thriving throughout Havana. Osmeivy Ortega, friend of Michael and visual artist, will guide you through visits to several artists’ studios. At Casa Fuster, you will see the work of an artist who helped transform his neighborhood with tile work and other installation work.
NOTE: It is not necessary to be a Hemingway fan to enjoy this program, but it will add to the experience. Participants will be encouraged to read Hemingway’s works To Have and Have Not and The Old Man and the Sea, as well as Black Witch Moth: A Man's Spiritual Journey to Find His Destiny by C. Michael Curry (2022).

Meet your leader

C. Michael Curry

Michael Curry grew up in Key West, Florida, hearing stories from his grandfathers, who knew Ernest Hemingway. His grandfather on his father's side was born on Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, in the Bahamas, and worked at the Key West Citizen, the local daily newspaper. Hemingway would come to the Citizen to check the wire for the day's news and to discuss news and current events with the newspaper's owner and editor. It was no small coincidence the newspaper in those days was located directly across from Sloppy Joe's Bar.

Michael's grandfather on his mother's side was a charter boat captain in Key West and a Bra Saunders and Joe Russell contemporary. His connection to Hemingway resulted from being around the docks where Saunders, Russell, and other party boat captains kept their boats. His recollections included conversations between the captains, the mates, and the writer on topics ranging from fishing to politics and the art of making a living from the sea.

Michael's grandmother on his father's side was born in Guanabacoa, Cuba, and spending time with her gave him a unique perspective on the connections between Cuba and Key West as he grew up. His great-grandparents, grandparents, and parents were and are Conchs.

Michael has co-written and co-produced a documentary on Hemingway titled "Hemingway: Between Key West and Cuba." In addition, he co-wrote and presented a paper on Hemingway in Cuba titled "The Picador and the Prisoner" at the 2023 Hemingway Colloquium in Havana, Cuba.

Michael is working on a paper he will present at the International Hemingway Conference in Spain in 2024.

Havana

Jan 17, 2025

Upon arrival into Havana, settle into the Palacio de los Corredores. Enjoy a brief orientation with your guide either before or after settling in(check-in starts is at 4 pm). Time permitting, stroll to the Malecón boardwalk via the Plaza de Armas and Plaza de San Francisco. Have dinner at Los Mercaderes with special guest Gladys Rodríguez, the first curator of the Museo Finca Vigía and an expert on Ernest Hemingway's life in Cuba. Cap off the evening at La Bodeguita del Medio, a busy streetside bar where Hemingway used to drink his mojitos.

Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Havana

Jan 18, 2025

Begin the day with a presentation about the restoration of Old Havana with Jaime Rodríguez, one of the three original architects involved in the initiative by the City Historian's Office to restore Old Havana in the 1980s. Jaime worked on the project until his retirement and designed some of its most unique structures. After the presentation enjoy a walking tour of the core of Old Havana including the major plazas. Stop for lunch at Doña Eutimia restaurant before visiting the print cooperative nearby. This afternoon, visit the studio of a Cuban visual artist Angel Ramirez. Dinner will be at Antojos this evening.

Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Havana

Jan 19, 2025

Spend time this morning accompanied by a curator at the National Museum of Fine Arts for a look at its vast collections of Cuban art spanning several centuries. After lunch at a local paladar, enjoy a ferry ride across Havana Bay to the town of Regla. You'll be welcomed into the home of musicians Janet Valdés and Alejandro Meroño for a mini-recital, a discussion about the community of Regla and its Afro-Cuban history. Also visit the Church of the Virgin of Regla, an excellent example of how Catholic and West African Yoruba beliefs have blended over time in this place. End the day with dinner at a paladar.

Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Havana

Jan 20, 2025

Today head west to the province of Pinar del Rio. This province is a rural heartland of Cuba and is home to the best tobacco growing farms in the world. In this region, remarkable limestone hills called mogotes punctuate the fertile valley of Viñales creating a stunning landscape. These hills harbor underground caves and rivers. Upon arrival in Viñales, we will visit a tobacco farm to learn about this crop which has such an important place in Cuban culture and history. Later we will enjoy lunch a farm to table lunch at Finca Agro Ecológico where we can savor all the dishes made with the produce from the land where the restaurant is located. This afternoon, we will visit the home of nature artist and author Nils Navarro. Travel back to Havana for a light dinner at a local paladar.

Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Havana

Jan 21, 2025

Today we will visit Finca Vigia, Hemingway's home in Cuba from 1939 to 1960. Located in the outskirts of Havana this home is now a museum that offers a view into Hemingway's life and where he wrote a number of his novels. His boat the Pilar, is also on the property. Next we will visit the fishing community of Cojímar, the setting for "The Old Man and the Sea." After lunch as a local paladar, return to Havana for rest and refresh before heading to dinner at Paladar Tierra this evening located within the Cuban Art Factory, part gallery, part theatre, part performance art space, the Cuban Art Factory is a dynamic art and social space.

Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Havana

Jan 22, 2025

Today visit Murealando art project before visiting the home of "Pepe" and Cecelia Viera for a talk about Cuba today and lunch at their home. Julio Viera aka "Pepe" is a former diplomat and scholar and Cecelia also worked in diplomacy. After lunch, stop by the Hemingway Marina to glimpse at more of Hemingways history in Cuba and then drive by Fusterlandia, a community art project. Later, take a ride in one of Cuba's iconic vintage cars to La Guarida - the setting for the Oscar-winning film "Strawberries and Chocolate".

Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner included
Overnight at Palacio de los Corredores

Jan 23, 2025

Today, bid farewell to Cuba and return to the U.S.

Breakfast- included